Backup Type

Not sure what a field means? Tap the next to its label.


Your Appliances & Loads

Enter a quantity for anything you want to back up. Running Watts is editable if you know your specific model's nameplate value — Starting Watts updates automatically based on a typical motor-surge multiplier for that appliance .
⚡ Essential Home Circuits
ApplianceRunning (W)Starting (W)Qty
Refrigerator
Sump Pump (1/3 HP)
Well Pump (1/2 HP)
Garage Door Opener
❄️ HVAC & Water Heating
ApplianceRunning (W)Starting (W)Tons / Qty
Central Air Conditioner (per ton)
Window AC Unit (10,000 BTU)
Gas Furnace Blower
Electric Water Heater
🍳 Kitchen & Laundry
ApplianceRunning (W)Starting (W)Qty
Microwave
Dishwasher
Washing Machine
Electric Clothes Dryer
🔌 Electronics, Medical & EV Charging
ApplianceRunning (W)Starting (W)Qty
TV / Home Electronics (per unit)
Medical Equipment (CPAP / Oxygen Concentrator)
EV Charger — Level 1 (120V)
EV Charger — Level 2 (240V)
➕ Custom Loads (not listed above)

Safety Margin & Fuel Type

%

Your Results

Recommended Generator Size
kW (standard market size)
Total Running Watts
W continuous
Total Starting / Peak Watts
W before safety margin
Apparent Power
kVA (at 0.8 power factor)
Formula: —
Transfer switch required: Never connect a generator directly to your home's wiring. An approved transfer switch or interlock device is required to prevent backfeeding the utility grid, which can energize downed lines and endanger utility workers. In the United States, standby generator interconnections generally fall under National Electrical Code Article 702 (Optional Standby Systems). Confirm permitting, transfer equipment, and installation requirements with a licensed electrician or your local Authority Having Jurisdiction before purchasing or installing equipment.
💡 Load management tip: A load-management transfer switch can temporarily shed non-essential circuits during a motor start, potentially letting you size down to the next standard generator size. Ask your installer whether load management fits your plan.
⚠️ Portable generator safety: Run portable generators outdoors only, well away from windows and doors — carbon monoxide from a generator can be deadly within minutes indoors or in an attached garage. Connect through an approved transfer switch or inlet box, never directly into household wiring.
Running vs. Starting/Peak Watts

Both numbers matter when choosing a generator: it must run everything continuously at your Running Watts total, and it must also handle the brief surge shown as Starting/Peak Watts when your largest motor switches on.

Running versus starting/peak watts comparison chart.

Results are for reference and estimation only. Verify all values before use in any generator purchase or installation. See full disclaimer below.

Calculate a generator size above to enable this section.

Using fuel type: Gasoline — change this above in Safety Margin & Fuel Type. Enter your tank size and fuel price below to estimate consumption, runtime, and cost.

🔌 Natural gas generators draw from your utility line — there's no onsite tank, so runtime isn't limited the way it is for gasoline, propane, or diesel. Consumption is typically measured in cubic feet per hour; consult your gas utility for cost-per-therm estimates.
kW
gal
$
Consumption Rate
gal/hr
Estimated Runtime
hours per tank
Cost per Hour
at entered fuel price
Cost per Full Tank
at entered fuel price

Fuel consumption varies by generator model, engine efficiency, altitude, and temperature — these are planning estimates, not a substitute for your manufacturer's published fuel consumption curve.

Common home backup profiles mapped to a recommended generator size, computed with this calculator's own formula at the default 20% safety margin. The first three rows use the Portable size list; the last uses the Whole-Home Standby size list, since a load this size is realistically a standby installation. Use this to sanity-check a calculated result at a glance — your own appliance selections above will differ from these fixed profiles.

Profile Peak Demand Recommended Size Type
Refrigerator, Garage Door Opener, Gas Furnace Blower3,050 W4 kWPortable
+ Well Pump + Sump Pump5,300 W6.5 kWPortable
+ 2-Ton Central Air Conditioner9,300 W12 kWPortable
Whole home: above + Electric Water Heater + 3-Ton AC + EV Charger (Level 2)24,000 W30 kWWhole-Home Standby

A deeper look at what goes into correctly sizing a generator, and how to choose between backup types and fuels — written for first-time buyers and job-site reference alike.

Why Starting Watts Drives Sizing More Than Running Watts

Running watts tells you what a generator has to sustain all day. Starting watts tells you what it has to survive for a fraction of a second. A generator sized only for the sum of everyone's running watts will often stall or trip the instant a well pump, central AC compressor, or furnace blower motor tries to start — because that single motor can momentarily demand two to three times its running wattage. This is usually the single biggest reason a "big enough on paper" generator fails in practice.

Why Only the Single Largest Surge Counts — And Its Limits

This calculator adds the running watts of everything you select, then adds only the largest individual starting-watt surge on top — not everyone's surge added together. That's standard practice because motors are assumed to start one at a time: everything else is already running at its steady-state wattage when the next motor kicks on. The limit of this assumption is simultaneous starts — if your well pump and central AC happen to start in the same instant, actual peak demand could briefly exceed this estimate. A generous safety margin and, for standby systems, a load-management transfer switch are the two common ways installers protect against that edge case.

Portable vs. Whole-Home Standby — The Real Trade-off

Portable generators cost far less upfront, run on gasoline, propane, or diesel you supply yourself, and require you to manually connect a transfer switch or inlet box every time the power goes out. Whole-Home Standby generators install permanently, start automatically within seconds of an outage, typically run on natural gas or propane from an existing utility line or tank, and cost several times more installed — but need no manual setup at all. The deciding factor is usually how often you actually lose power and how much manual effort you're willing to accept during an outage, not just the sticker price.

Choosing a Fuel Type

Gasoline is the most widely available fuel for portable units but degrades within a few months without a stabilizer, so it's a poor choice for a generator that sits unused for long stretches. Propane stores indefinitely and burns cleaner, at a slight cost in energy density per gallon. Diesel is typically the most fuel-efficient option per gallon and holds up well in commercial duty, at a higher equipment cost. Natural Gas offers effectively unlimited runtime for a standby unit tied into a utility line, at the cost of being fixed in place and dependent on that utility supply staying up during the outage.

Common Sizing Mistakes

The most frequent errors are: sizing only for running watts and ignoring the largest motor's starting surge, forgetting a well pump or central AC entirely because it isn't "always on," skipping the safety margin because the running-watts math already "adds up," and connecting a portable generator directly into household wiring instead of through an approved transfer switch — which risks backfeeding the grid and endangering utility workers. Always size for the specific appliances you'll actually run, not a rough guess at square footage.

This guide is provided for educational and reference purposes. Always confirm system specifications, permitting, and transfer equipment with a licensed electrician or generator installer before purchasing or installing equipment.